march 21 - houghton, new york - some dive

i am not usually so vehemently unhappy about being in a small town, even for one night, but this place is a bit odd. there is nothing in this town except for a subway. and a sort of mini-mart attached to a citgo gas station. linda and i drove for almost a half an hour before finding a total dive with mediocre food. but we had nachos, gin and tonics, wine, and two hamburgers for $22. so all is not lost. except for our desire to live. because this place sucks it right out of you. i simply cannot fathom why people choose to live in places like this. and i cannot fathom how one can say the word 'unfathomable' while wearing braces - because i tried about 5 times tonight and could never say it.

march 18 – acme oyster house

i am in either a routine or a rut. i went to the acme oyster house at the aiport again. i had the red beans and rice again. delicious as ever.

i had a praline from the praline connection. not good. threw half of it away. stick to aunt sally’s. i am growing more and more convinced this is the only truly good praline in new orleans.

march 17 – sweet ginger

since it was st paddy’s day and we figured the entire french quarter would be teeming with more drunk people than normal, marco and i went our separate ways for dinner.

i cruised down gravier st towards my favorite hotel in all of new orleans – the internation house on camp street – in search of what i thought was the thai restaurant affiliated with the hotel.

i went into sweet ginger, even though i realized there was another thai restaurant on camp that was the restaurant that was part of the hotel. no matter – i was already seated in sweet ginger, with a great window seat on the camp side of the restaurant.

i started with a spicy shrimp soup which was delicious if extremely sour. it was spicy, to be sure, and it was served with a nice presentation of about four large shrimp in the center of the dish.

my entrée was a spicy fried oyster dish served on a bed of assorted vegetables with a large scoop of white rice. get this dish. it was amazingly good, and i will happily order this dish again when i return to sweet ginger on my next trip to new orleans (which will be next week!).

march 16 – gumbo shop

while i waited in line, my two coworkers walked down the street to pat o’brien’s to get hurricanes. the line, though it was long and extended out onto the sidewalk in front of the restaurant, moved quickly, and we were seated within about twenty minutes of our arrival.

all three of us settled on the combination dinner, which included an appetizer (i had a side salad because i am a very big fan of their vinaigrette dressing, though i am utterly stumped as to what it’s made of), an entrée (we all three chose the combination plate of shrimp creole, beans and rice, and jambayala, a vegetable (the server said her favorite was the turnip greens, and i agree – these were among the best i’d ever had in a restaurant), and a dessert (i had the bread pudding).

the salad was as good as my previous memories, and the entrée was quite good though disappointingly not very hot either spice-wise or heat-wise. and as i mentioned, the turnip greens were quite delicious.

i went back to the gumbo shop with the explicit desire to get their bread pudding, which from my previous visit was among the best i’d ever had. my memory was that it was so piping hot that it took a long time to get through the dish. and my memory of the bourbon sauce was what brought me back to this restaurant.

sadly, the bread pudding was not hot, and the sauce was almost congealed. it was still tasty, but it was nowhere near as good as it should have been.

i’ll grant the staff at the gumbo show that they were busy and still had a steady stream of people waiting on line to get in when we left, but they should still focus on maintaining the high quality service and food that keeps those crowds coming in.

march 15 – nola

very long story involved in how marco and i found ourselves at nola. i’ll spare everyone the long, uninteresting story and just say we stumbled in there from a very rainy, cold night in new orleans.

it looked as if there were plenty of open tables, but when we made our way in, there was clearly a wait. so again without reservations, we were told we could do a ‘first come, first served’ at the bar, or if we were willing to wait a minute or two, they’d check on ‘another option.’ intrigued, we waited. our wait, though, was nice and short. Promptly, the hostess took us back to a chef’s bar, where we were seated right on the edge of the kitchen and right in front of the sous chef who handled many of the appetizers and side dishes. while we were seated right in front of his prep station, we were also located right in front of an enormous brick oven where many of the seafood dishes were prepared. almost immediately, servers were at our sides getting drinks and just providing some very amiable chit chat. charming – without a doubt.

it took me longer than it should have to decide on a dish, and once i’d decided to order the seafood stew, marco mentioned he was ordering that, so i felt like i had to get something else.

in the meantime, the chef in front of us – lo – placed a mozzarella, basil, and tomato appetizer in front of us, compliments of the house. it was delicious even if it seemed somewhat incongruous with the restaurant or the menu.

i finally settled on the special salad of the day, which was a mixed green salad topped with some sesame fried oysters. the dressing was a sweet, tangy sauce that was an amazing compliment to the oysters. there were also some very thinly sliced red onions along with some crumbled gorgonzola cheese. all in all, this was an amazing dish, and i would have been more than happy to have a dinner of nothing but this salad.

i ordered the cedar plank fish after seeing several of them prepared in front of us. the dish looked like an enormous amount of fish covered with a citrus-based horseradish sauce. while i normally avoid any fruit-based sauces, gravies, or toppings of any kind, i decided to bust out of my shell and order this fish.

plus lo told us that this had been on the menu for over 12 years, and it was clearly a house favorite. how could i go wrong?

but wrong i went. this was definitely not a dish i enjoyed. and in fact, the fish was so citrusy and there was so many strands of citrus peel in the sauce that the texture was one i simply could not eat. fortunately, marco is a generous dining companion, and so we swapped meals midway through.

the fish did come with a nice cucumber and tomato salad, which was quite tasty.

marco’s seafood stew had a very delicious assortment of very fresh seafood – including enormous shrimp and spicy sausage.

while we reviewed the dessert menu (which also included a very impressive list of after dinner drinks, which both marco and i thought seemed quite expensive across the board), we both declined and got coffee instead. while several of the desserts sounded good, none sounded especially good or at least good enough to get.

all in all, i’d have to say i was very happy to have tried nola, but it’s not a restaurant i would return to for anything other than the fantastic, attentive and friendly without being insincere service we received from everyone we encountered.

march 14 – tommy’s

we went back to tommy’s given that there were approximately 35,000 in new orleans for a telecommunications conference, and we somehow thought because this restaurant was not right in the FQ, it would not be crowded. surprisingly, we were somewhat right and were seated without reservations.

i could not resist having the maison tomatoes with blue cheese again, and it was as good as i remembered.

as my entrée, i did venture out into new territory though and tried the seafood casserole, which included shrimp, crab, and crawfish baked in a crockery dish with large pieces of eggplant and cheese. the top was also coated with some breadcrumbs and even a bit more cheese – parmesan i believe. this was a good dish with a lot of dense, rich flavor, but the eggplant seemed far more plentiful than the seafood, and there was so much cream and cheese that almost nothing held its own distinct flavor and instead just tasted overwhelmingly cheesy. while this is sometimes a good thing – when you’ve got the opportunity to have such fresh seafood in a dish, you want that to be the predominant taste of the dish.

so while it would be inaccurate to say this dish was not still quite enjoyable, it’s not one i would readily order on another trip to tommy’s.

my co-worker greg tried the praline pecan bread pudding. this was also served with a bit of bananas foster on the side and a scoop of vanilla ice cream. talk about gilding the lily. I tried a bite of the pudding, but i was not so overwhelming impressed that i rushed to order any more for myself. the coffee was a good chicory coffee and served as a nice (lighter) alternative to dessert.

march 13 - covington - home!

who knew it possible? i actually ate dinner at home tonight. made my typical salad with my delish homemade dressing (loosely defined combination of honey, garlic, evoo, balsamic, and whole-seed dijon mustard). also made my fav sockeye salmon with ginger/honey/garlic/lemon.

made me really, really miss being at home so that i could cook. alas, i had to head back on the road on monday, but at least it's back to food city, usa - new orleans!

march 12 - covington - subway

back home for one very brief weekend before heading back to new orleans for the work week.

today we celebrated eli's first birthday - amazing! and we had those ginormous subs from subway. they were actually much better than i ever expected them to be, so all in all, not bad.

march 11 - honolulu - spa! and plane-ride home

i spent the day at the mandara spa getting a lomi lomi massage and lounging by the spa's pool. so so so nice. and such a perfect way to spend my last day in hawaii.

food-wise, though, the day was uninteresting.

i had a 'spa juice' which was actually quite a nice blend of fresh pineapple and papaya.

on the hideous plane-ride home, they actually served us salads - as the main dinner entree. i've never had a salad on a plane before. i was actually relieved bc i wasnt in the mood for their usual crap food, and this was fine and light for the long haul.

and wonder of wonder, i actually slept most of the ride home. hallelujah! maybe i can now sleep on planes.

march 10 - honolulu - hatsuhana, the dole plantation, and the trailer at the north shore

brad and i trekked up to the north shore on our first day off after the conference ended. he was planning to go diving with the sharks, and i was planning to sit on the beach and work on my tan while avoiding being mugged, beaten or robbed (we'd been warned several times about the high theft rates against tourists at the north shore).

anyhoo, after getting slightly off course and ending up on the west shore and not the north shore, brad and i finally got our bearings, and we made it up to the north shore to see the massive waves that purportedly were between 30-35' high.

i like brad. he and i have about the same level of enthusiasm for seeing such awe-inspiring forces of nature at work.

we drove past the waves, which looked like any other waves i'd ever seen, agreed they were waves, and kept driving.

we did stop for lunch at a trailer on the side of the main road that was referenced in brad's lonely planet guide. we both had some yummy chicken teriyaki, though it was slightly surreal and slightly ghoulish that while we were eating the chicken, real, live chickens were hovering around our table. though we both commented on the irony, we both also chowed down on the teriyaki. all that wave-watching from the car made us hungry, you know.

on the way back to honolulu, i twisted poor brad's arm to stop at the dole plantation. i am quite the fan of the pineapple. so we stopped. and while we spent almost as much time looking at how pineapples grow (i was genuinely interested; brad was genuinely interested in taking a cool snappy snap of the varieties of pineapples they grow at the plantation) as we did looking at the north shore waves, we did both partake of the 'dole whip' - which was pineapple soft serve. yeah, it sounds better than it tastes. well, it was good. not something i feel any desperate need to eat again, but i scarfed that down.

we also tried to eat some real sugar cane. i'd always wanted to try it, and brad had previously had a delicious experience with it in africa. this was not delicious. not worth the effort. not in any way, shape, or form something i'd try again with braces on. no good. dont do it.

brad and i also had more sushi at hatsunama at the hilton before he headed back for the mainland. aloha, brad!

march 9 - honolulu - sidestreet inn

this was a local hawaiian restaurant that my masseuse from the mandara spa pointed me to for some real authentic hawaiian food.

brad and i ventured over after getting an animated approval from the attendant at my hotel who got us a taxi. i am guessing it's not often the hilton guests head over to this dive.

and dive it pretty much was. it was a 'sports bar' according to our server, but it was much less sportsy-bary that what i'm used to seeing. aside from a few tvs tuned to sporting events, it basically just seemed like a divey bar.

but the drinks and food were amazing. we started with lychee flavored vodka, or the eyeball drink as i called it when i spotted it on the bar. delicious, though i am somehow becoming less tolerant of hard alcohol (straight) as i become more and more of a wine drinker.

we split a large salad of local greens with blue cheese and a delicious vinagrette that neither brad nor i could figure out the ingredients for. yummy all the same. we also split a smoked roasted pork dish which was amazingly good. i could have eaten a plate of just that and been quite satisfied. we also shared a plate of clams cooked in a nice garlic butter broth with loads of cilantro (so you know i loved it) and peppers. a nice alternate to the pork but just no where near as good.

a good place to visit - get the pork.

march 8 – honolulu – cheesecake factory

had my cheesecake factory standard: sante fe salad. yummy as always. also had coffee heath bar cheesecake, which proved once again to be too rich to eat. so i ate all of the whipped cream instead.

had probably the best time i’ve ever had going out with my co-workers though. tyra and i crafted a list of the top ten things men do to screw up relationships, and the guys were able to craft a list of 4 things women do.

march 7 – honolulu – keo’s

easily the best thai food i’ve ever had.

again, dave chose to pass on the thai food. but brad and i went to town. we ordered fresh spring rolls to start which were very tasty but did not have enough seafood for my taste. a very nice peanut dipping sauce accompanied them.

i had my thai standard – thai basil, but per my server’s recommendation, i ordered it with seafood (not on the menu, but still available). it was fantastic. it contained a mixture of thai vegetables along with an assortment of shrimp, squid, and scallops. very spicy (though i did order it hot) and delicious. we ordered the thai sticky rice which, while interesting and tasted very good, proved almost too sticky to eat easily with chopsticks.

brad had the shrimp evil jungle prince. though he got chicken evil jungle prince. it was good and a nicely flavored coconut-based sauce, but we both agreed it would have been better with seafood.

march 6 – honolulu – hatsuhana (hilton hawaiian village's japanese restaurant)

by far, the best sushi i’ve ever had. my pal brad and i tried several kinds:

unagi (apparently my new favorite sushi)
squid (delicious if ever so slightly tougher than i expected)
spicy tuna (fantastic, probably the best of our selections)
fresh fish roe (i actually did not try this as i had some at todai’s the night before and did not like it at all)
volcano (creamy spicy scallops)

exceptionally fresh, nicely presented, and very reasonably priced.

service was quite good too as dave, unable or unwilling to try sushi, ordered chicken teriyaki, which he also did not like. the server was so upset that he hadn’t eaten enough that she gave all of us free ice cream. we should all eat with dave more often.

march 5 – honolulu, hawaii – todai

ok, so hawaii is nothing if not heavily influenced by japanese culture. Accordingly, japanese food is plentiful throughout honolulu. todai’s is a chain seafood buffet that someone from my work group thought was the apex of japanese food.

my impression was less favorable. i should start by saying that i am generally not a big fan of buffets unless it’s chock full of breakfast food goodness. that being said, i was skeptical going into the place.

the food was overflowing – and came in all sorts – hot seafood dishes included various assortments of cooked fishes, chinese-style fish and vegetable dishes, and crab legs (i only ate some of the spicy calamari (good, not great) and the garlic eggplant among the hot foods, so i cannot speak to much of the food quality here. the cold seafood included a large assortment of japanese salads and sushi. the sushi was good but not great and given the restaurant’s location in honolulu, the fish seemed less fresh than it should have been.

one major milestone: i tried unagi for the first time and actually found it quite tasty.

the desserts at todai’s are cuter than they are tasty. they are served in teeny-tiny little portions, which is probably good – given that they seemed relatively flavorless, the tiny cheesecakes and tiramisu were not worth any amount of calories to expend on them. the bananas in caramel, though, were quite yummy.

march 4 – acme oyster house (airport), kate latter’s praline

after realizing at the acme oyster house last night that i’d actually already eaten in the restaurant since i had eaten at the airport location of the restaurant on my last trip to NO, i figured i’d find somewhere else to eat while i waited for my flight. no luck. the louis armstrong international airport is a sad place for food, given this city’s rich culinary tradition.

so i went back to the acme at the airport as my only other food choices were beignets or ice cream.

tonight i ordered red beans and rice and a side of hush puppies (one of my favorite childhood foods). the red beans and rice were, by far, the best i’d ever had. and they would have been more than sufficient alone but were served with a very large piece of sausage. together, the combination was perfect. the beans were thickish but certainly not unlike a chili consistency. they were cooked with a nice smoked ham, many pieces of which were still in the beans. the white rice was average and really didn’t do much in the way of adding any flavor to the beans. the sausage, though – oh the sausage. spicy but not hot; smoky but not smoked. very very good.

and while i was waiting for my plane, i decided to give another praline a try. i’ve always been an aunt sally’s praline kind of gal. but tonight i tried kate latter’s maple praline. and i’ve concluded that I am still an aunt sally’s praline kind of gal. the kate latter’s praline was much more like the consistency of fudge than of a traditional praline. the maple flavoring was a nice change from the traditional praline flavor, but it just seemed too far afield from what I would normally consider a praline to be, and while i’m always up for something new, this something new was not something i think i’d try again.

march 3 – acme oyster house, café du monde

After my earlier failed attempt this week to make it to the acme oyster house, i decided this week i’d make an earlier visit hoping to secure a spot in the seemingly always overcrowded restaurant off of bourbon st, even if it was just at the bar.

so an early trip is certainly the key to getting in. but i did end up sitting at the bar. after chatting with my bartender about what raw oysters tasted like, she offered to give me one to try for free. though i’ve always kind of had the squicks about the idea of eating raw oysters, this was actually quite good. i could easily see how, if they weren’t fresh, they could be quite bad quite quickly. not the case here – fresh as could be and, as my bartender told me, pretty much just take on the taste of anything you put on them. i tried cocktail sauce, tabasco sauce and just plain lemon juice. all were quite good.

for my entrée, i hurriedly made the choice to get the peacemaker po boy. bad call. the bread was poor, very chewy, and hard to bite into without the sandwich just falling apart. after about two failed attempts to bite into the sandwich, i ditched the bread and just ate the fried oysters and shrimp after squeezing some lemon juice over them. very good. especially the oysters.

had another evening of a large café au lait at café du monde before heading over to preservation hall and maison bourbon for some fantastic live music. preservation hall is clearly the main place to really experience old-style live jazz music in the FQ. and it is well worth the inevitable line you will have to wait in. don’t be annoyed or dissuaded by the clueless tourists around you who will whine and groan about the wait. it’s worth it; stick it out.

NB: the price of tickets for one set at preservation hall has increased from $5 to $7.50. you’re scooted out after one set is over, so be prepared to wait on line longer than you will be able to listen to music.

march 2 - olive branch, tommy's cuisine

two words for today: yum-my.

tommy's cuisine
746 Tchoupitoulas StNew Orleans, LA 70130-3636 Phone: (504) 581-1103

tommy's came to us recommended by our client (our lady of holy cross college), as an outpost or satellite of irene's cuisine, another local favorite. so my co-worker and i ventured over to the street with the best name in the world to check this place out after 10 hours at the client site.

it's located in the warehouse district of NO, which is a trendy, young, very much on-the-way-up neighborhood that borders the french quarter. and in fact, the neighborhood seemed so much less seedy than do parts of the touristy/tourist trappy french quarter that i just might check that area out on one of my return trips here this month and really get to know that area better.

so...the food. in one word - wonderful.

i had the maison tomatoes appetizer, which was three very large slices of ripe, fresh tomatoes that had been drizzled heavily with a nice EVOO and a rich balsamic vinegar. you could choose between crumbled blue cheese or fresh mozarella to have with the tomatoes. without hesitation, i chose the blue cheese. it also came with a generous portion of very thinly sliced mild red onions. with the combination of the tomatoes, the oil, the vinegar, the cheese, the onions, and the overabundance of freshly ground pepper, i was right at home...quite literally. i have a salad each day at lunch that is identical, only i have mine with romaine lettuce. but this was light years better than what i make each day - and maybe it was just the simplicity of the dish or the high quality of the ingredients. whatever the case, it was a wonderful start to the meal.

speaking of a starter, while we both passed on tommy's wide assortment of seafood-based appetizers, our server (the waitstaff at the restaurant is all male, and all older european...it somehow seems utterly normal and utterly appropriate in this dreamy and dream-like, heavily wooden and curtain-drawn series of dining rooms) brought us a small plate with two pieces of bruscetta, compliments of tommy. the bread was perfectly not too crisp and not too fluffy, like too many bruscetta seem to be. it was topped with two slices of roma tomatoes, freshly chopped garlic and basil, and topped with some melted parmesan or parmesan regiano. excellent. excellent.

unlike nearly every where i've ever eaten in new orleans, the bread at tommy's was outstanding. it was a large, italian loaf seeded with sesame. could have easily passed for true european bread and it was head and shoulders above the spongy, uninterested bread i've been disappointed by throughout this city.

and at last...my entree. i ordered the soft shell crabs on a bed of linguine with a garlic basil crawfish sauce. absolutely delicious. the crab was as most soft shell crab is - a bit lacking in flavor in the legs but the body was quite tasty and crabby. the sauce, quite abundant with the fresh crawfish, was so delicious that any of the crab with the sauce was just a wonderfully tasty combination. the pasta also had several little piles of fresh spinach that had been very lightly cooked with some oil and garlic. this proved to be an amazing combination with the sauce, and i can almost say if i'd had the spinach with just the sauce as my dinner, i probably would have been nearly as happy.

as a rather stark contrast to dinner, we had a rather ho-hum lunch at the olive branch, a little dinette near to the school. i had a blackened shrimp caesar salad which, while good, was nothing remarkable and certainly nothing memorable in comparision with the dinner that followed.

alas, no bread pudding today.

march 1 - steve's deli, old coffee pot

steve's deli

800 block of gravier street, new orleans

steve's is a sweet little diner that serves a quick breakfast and lunch from a walk-up counter where food is dished out for you while you watch. very friendly staff with very tasty, home-cookin' food. several varieties of coffee, including chicory and flavored.

grits and cheese: grits are one of my favorite foods in the world. i cant help it. i'm from kentucky. love 'em. here they'll serve you a heapin' helpin' with a mound of shredded cheddar or american cheese at the bottom of the bowl. they'll top the grits with some melted butter if you'd like. a delicious breakfast for under $1.50. also serve a full array of big breakfasts and breakfast sandwiches on what looked to be fluffy, oversized biscuits.

a most uninteresting lunch at bennigans, and after this, i am not sorry that the bennigans chain doesnt seem to have much of a foot-hold in cincinnati.

old coffee pot

714 St. Peter Street, New Orleans 504-524-3500

to be honest, i did not seek this restaurant out. i had planned to go to the acme oyster house first, but the line there was well down the street. then i planned to go to the gumbo shop, but the wait there was also more than my stomach could tolerate. so i wandered down st peters until i stumbled onto the old coffee pot. its exterior is similar to the gumbo shop, and its interior is not that different, but somehow the gumbo shop seems to be more run-down looking for effect; the run-down look to OCP seems authentic. a bit of courtyard dining area (also like the gumbo shop) and a large bar in the main dining room. some very interesting original features to the dining room....gorgeous fireplace, a lot of french artwork, and a most interesting or most hideous chandlier...i couldnt decide if it was amazing or atrocious.

i ordered the crawfish etouffee, since i'd read today that it's crawfish season is now in full swing here. it was quite tasty, after i doctored it up with a bit of tasbasco bc, to my tongue, etouffee should be spicy...maybe i'm just biased bc dee felice's etouffee is quite spicy. the crawfish was plentiful, tasty, fresh and not at all tough (as sometimes crawfish, shrimp, and other shellfish can be when either overcooked or cooked in large quantities)...nicely balances with some green peppers and some of the strongest onions i think i've ever encountered. an excellent mix of flavors. served with a heaping mound of white rice.

two complaints about the meal: the etouffee was only warm, not hot, which was disappointing. also, several bites included something that seemed a bit crunchy, and i could not tell for sure if it was just a stray piece or two of undercooked rice or if it was a piece of crawfish shell. in any case, it wasnt noticeable enough to be cause for concern or disgust, but it was noticeable on two or three bites.

bread pudding and coffee. the coffee was regular with no chicory. the bread pudding had been microwaved, which didnt seem to detract from the flavor but which did make the interior blazingly hot and the sides barely warm. this bread pudding had raisins, and IMHO, it had too many, but they were nicely swimming in the rum sauce that seemed to melt a bit of whipped cream they put on top. the mixture of the cream and the rum sauce made for a wonderfully creamy sauce that gave the bread pudding the bulk of its flavor. a bit more cinnamon would have improved the dish overall, but without question, it was quite good.

hands down, this restaurant had two things going for it:

1) the staff kept commenting on why this pretty girl (me!) was having dinner alone (hey! i take compliments where i can these days)

2) it's only a few doors down from preservation hall, which is, without question, one of the best places to visit in this town. the show starts at 8pm each night, and so a line usually forms, sometimes even up to the OCP. but that line might mix with the crowd trying to get into pat o'brien's, which is directly next door to the OCP. needless to say, st peter's street is an interesting mix of things to do, see, hear, and eat.

february 28 - tujagues

tujagues
http://www.tujagues.com/

823 Decatur St.New Orleans, Louisiana504-525-8676

having heard for years about this restaurant, i always wanted to give it a try but didn't for the following reasons:

1) it has that super-authentic, old-school look, and i found that slightly intimidating bc i thought it might mean it was expensive

2) it is a restaurant i'd heard of, and typically restaurants i've heard of or seen on tv are usually a bit outside of the normal per diem food expenses, and so i've avoided it

3) it is directly across decatur street from both cafe du monde and aunt sally's praline shop - two of my favorite places in NO...

so i ventured down to decatur to where tujagues is located. it's a fantastic location...just off of jackson square, right across from the old french market, and within an easy view of the riverfront.

this is a prix fixe place - no menu at all, except for alcohol. so come with an open mind and an empty stomach bc it's a FIVE COURSE prix fixe menu.

the four entree offerings change each day, and on my visit the options included:

-filet mignon
-crawfish in a cream sauce over pasta
-shrimp and crabmeat in a butter sauce over fried eggplant
-a fish dish

i had the shrimp and crabmeat over eggplant, but here is how the meal broke down:

shrimp remoulade: a salad of plain greens topped with chilled boiled shrimp generously covered in a spicy (cocktail-sauce-like, only with much more kick) remoulade dressing. delicious. spicy but not in a 'bam' way so that it's spicy for the sake of being spicy. it's a nice horseradish spice with a zesty tomato undertone.

gumbo: probably the best, though most subtle, gumbo i've had in new orleans. a very thick soupy broth, that was delicately but perfectly spiced. a nice garlic and pepperly flavor without either being cloyingly heavy. very minimal vegetables in the gumbo and a small portion of the meats - shrimp and sausage. the fact that despite the relative dearth of visible ingredients is testament to how well done the soup itself was - it didn't need all the other hoo-hah to distract you from the actual flavor. served over a bit of white rice.

beef brisket: the house speciality, served in a small, sample-size portion. my server said they just want you to sample it with their tomato-horseradish dressing. while this dressing seemed reminiscent of the remoulade, it wasn't exactly the same, and in fact, the accompaniment to the brisket was even tangier and had more horseradish heat, and i prefered it to the remoulade. i dont believe i've ever had such tender brisket - it literally pulled apart with barely any effort against the fork. excellent. i would have been exceptionally satisfied with a larger piece of this for my dinner.

eggplant with shrimp and crab: of all the courses, this was the most disappointing, though speaking relatively, this means it was still quite good. the seafood was exceptionally fresh. the crab meat was not quite as plentiful as i'd hoped, but there was enough of it that the butter-based sauce did take on a distinctly crabby taste. the crab taste was a tad overwhelmed by the presence of both red and green peppers in the sauce. the eggplant was fried but not into that utter mush that some fried eggplant becomes. crispy but not overly seasoned breading on the eggplant. pleasant, but as i say, the least impressive of the courses. served with a very boring side of steamed vegetables, including squash and carrots.

bread pudding and chicory: of all the courses, this might have been the best. the bread pudding had no raisins (a HUGE plus in my book, though i enjoy bread pudding enough that i will tolerate raisins) and had an amazing caramel-ish sauce. it might have been a rum sauce, which would be quite traditional for NO, but i couldnt discern any rum flavor at all. excellent. and a wonderful combination with a small glass of chicory coffee to which i did add cream and sugar. a mild chicory, to be sure, but still quite delicious. an amazing contrast of flavors that really compliment one another very well.

and just to prove what a glut i really am, i made a stop later in the evening to cafe du monde to have a cup of cafe au lait. probably the sweetest, most delicious coffee i've had in NO, and maybe anywhere. but dont compare the CDM cafe au lait to what you'd get at starbucks. the chicory base on the coffee somehow gives this an altogether, and to me, much preferred, flavor. heaven in a cup. plus cafe du monde is one of the best locations in NO for some decent people watching...and on a cool, early spring night, it was perfect to sip some hot cafe with a cool breeze blowing in from the river.

a month of eating dangerously; or, how the tan girl sought the best bread pudding in new orleans

so i'm spending a month travelling pretty much non-stop.

i'll be in new orleans for much of the month, excepting a side trip to new york (upstate, not manhattan, sad to say) and another little jaunt to HAWAII!

yes, many, many days i will moan and groan about my job. but not this month, friends. this month my job rocks because it's taking me to new orleans, one of my favorite places on earth and to hawaii, not one of my favorite places on earth, but a nice diversion from covington to be sure.

and in savoring a bit of bread pudding tonight, i decided i'd keep a food journal of my time in new orleans as a means of recording my hits and misses for future trips to NO and also as a helpful guide to pals coming to NO - since this is a town i am getting to know pretty well, and i think i can provide some decent out-of-towner's advice on the city.

so just to be orderly about it, i'm going to do a separate entry for each day.

enjoy!